Fire...oh, wait, I had to cut that part...and Ice (with apologies to Pat Benatar)
Faithful
readers (of which I’m not sure there’s any except me, and that’s mostly just to
assure myself that I’ve been doing something other than watching old movies and
eating starches) will have noticed that I posted nothing in July and minimally
in August. These months were the start
of the doldrums, a time when I couldn’t get motivated to do anything
creative. The research tells us that the
third quarter of an Antarctic winter stay has the highest incidence of
winter-over syndrome, with insomnia, irritability, depression, and withdrawal
dominating our interactions and behaviors.
The months are even named things like Angry August and Stabby September.
Despite
knowing what might happen, and even telling others about Winter-Over Syndrome
so we could watch out for each other, I nonetheless chomped down on the bait of
sloth. It’s not like we didn’t do
anything…we’ll talk about some of these events in a moment. But on a daily
basis, the combination of isolation and monotony and really nothing to do except
take inventories and babysit the house meant that more days than not were spent
simply killing times between meals and satellite passes, when you could
distract yourself looking up things on Wikipedia and checking Facebook every
two minutes or so until falling into a state of torpor as one satellite departs
the horizon and you await the arrival of the next one to continue looking up
things you don’t really want to know. The
baseline tasks still happened. The
occasional patient was seen in the clinic, and we did weekly training for our
Medical Assistants and Emergency Response Team.
Administrative reports got filed on time. Everyone did their part in cleaning public areas
of station on Monday; we took trash down to the under-ice waste bins twice a
week, and cleaned, swept, and mopped the Medical Clinic on Saturday
morning. I planted seeds in the
greenhouse every week, took my shower every three days, and did laundry once a
fortnight. It’s sad when you wash your linens
not because they need it, but simply for a break in routine.
I’ve been aware
that people have started to isolate themselves for a while, but the month of
August seems to have marked an acceleration of the process. Less people come to meals; more of those who
do pass through the galley take their food to eat elsewhere. Some people have purposefully chosen to limit
their participation in the larger community; unfortunately, while the
membership of social groups s still somewhat fluid, in some circles there’s a
clear idea of who’s welcome and who’s not.
There’s no question that the Station is a better, more efficient, and
more welcoming place when everyone is embraced by and involved in the
community, but it would be wrong to think this state of affairs was a
surprise. As best I can tell what we’re
experiencing is as predicted by studies of Winter-Over Syndrome and the
recollections of prior winter crews. I
liken what’s happening to a problem with the frontal lobe of the brain in
patients with dementia or alcohol
intoxication, where behaviors that might be otherwise controlled, regulated, or
suppressed and now given free reign. The
lack of behavior modifiers simply makes you more who you always were. Folks who are loud get louder; the sarcastic
and the critical become more so; introverts retreat even further into their own
world. And with the lack of outside
influences and the monotony of the austral night, each joy is exaggerated, but
every negative is magnified beyond it’s true significance.
I think I
see this in me as well. While I don’t
believe I’ve changed in any fundamental way…I don’t hate things that were
favorites before, and I have no inclination to pick fights or punch inanimate
objects in a rage...I do notice that those things that would slightly irritate
me before have now assumed an outsized
presence on my life. Annoyances that
would normally fade away after a glass of milk, a couple of Hostess Twinkies,
and an episode of WKRP in Cincinnati now fester in my mind, and I tend to
ruminate on them because work and home are one and the same and there’s no
place else to go. I’m not at the point
of obsession…I think…but I can easily see how someone could get there. It feels like it’s already happened to a few
of my colleagues, whose lives seem dominated by disagreements and slights that
I suspect would mean nothing to them up North.
And most of us are able to distance ourselves from the moment enough to
know these feelings and frustrations are transient, a function of where we are
rather than who we’ve become. A favorite
phrase around the station is “Once you step off the plane in New Zealand, nothing
at the Pole matters.” Still, we try to
take our minds and souls elsewhere, even as our bodies are stuck in place.
**********
On Monday
Nights someone gives a talk. It’s
officially called the Monday Science Talk, but since there’s only a handful of
scientists on station it’s really a chance for anyone to talk about whatever
they want to anyone who’s willing to listen.
It’s not like we don’t ever learn any science. We’ve learned about neutrinos, rocket
propulsion, and asteroids. One of the
more interesting talks was about the Search for Extraterrestrial Intelligence
(SETI). SETI uses radio telescopes to
scan the skies for organized signals that might emanate from a technologically
advanced civilization (defined as one that just won’t stop and accept that
pixies run the universe). But how do you
know where in the entire spectrum of possible radio frequencies to look? Turn the dial just a bit to the right or left
and you’ll miss Casey Kasem’s American Top 40 and wind up with Rush
Limbaugh.
I was also
interested in the Drake Equation, a probability construct that estimates, in a
theoretical fashion, the number of planetary civilizations that exist in the
universe at any one time. The equation
itself looks like this:
N = R ∗ × Fp × Ne × Fl × Fi × Fc × L .
N is the number of currently active, communicative civilizations in our galaxy.
R∗ is the rate at which stars form in our galaxy.
Fp is the fraction of stars with planets.
Ne is the number of planets that can potentially host life, per star that has planets.
Fl is the fraction of the above that actually do develop life of any kind.
Fi is the fraction of the above that develop intelligent life.
Fc is the fraction of the above that develop the capacity for interstellar communication.
L is the length of time that such communicative civilizations are active.
Got all that? There's a quiz next period.
When the equation was first formulated in the early 1960’s, we had yet to discover exoplanets, those planets found to orbit stars other than our own sun. (It was also before some idiot demoted Pluto, for which I’ve still not quite forgiven Neil deGrasse Tyson). It now appears that virtually every star has planets of one kind or another. So the Fp factor, which used to be thought a miniscule fraction, is now basically 100% (1.0). That inflates the number of possible civilizations to an almost unimaginable number. Undoubtedly there’s someone out there, and at some point SETI or a similar future effort will find it. But since the early days of radio we’ve also been broadcasting into the cosmos, so perhaps some alien being will stumble across a faint trace of “The Battling Bickersons” and decide to either dispatch an emissary to bring peace to mankind (please refer to “The Day the Earth Stood Still”) or decide that if those pesky Terrans can’t fix their own relationships, there’s no way we can do it even with three heads, radial symmetry, and fifteen dexterous but oily tentacles, and perhaps we’d better just stay home and enjoy some methane in the backyard.
(As best I
understand, if SETI finds an alien signal, what they do with it is someone
else’s problem. Not my monkeys, not my
circus.)
In the best
spirit of adventuring and fellowship, most talks are stories told around a
metaphorical campfire. We’ve heard tales
of people crashing rock concerts in Argentina, getting tear gassed in Chile,
and arrested in Burkina Faso, the only phrase understood by the errant
prisoners being “Les blancs sont un probleme” (“The whites are a problem”). We’ve learned how to travel the world on
somebody else’s money by working on cruise ships and teaching English overseas;
we heard how one of our more demure teammates got tossed out of Octoberfest in
Munich after chasing liters of beer to the cheers of an admiring throng. The Vehicular Punster did a mock informercial
for an imaginary pyramid scheme selling vitamins from China.
(For the
record, I firmly believe that Ouagadougou, the capital of Burkina Faso, is the
best-named capital city in the world.)
One of our
stewards discussed how to get on Wheel of Fortune, and we cheered him on as he
showed us his episode. He kicked butt,
winning $27,000 and a trip to Aruba. One
of the other contestants got totally skunked but seemed to have a good time;
the other, a woman named DeeDee, kept shooting my friend killing looks each
time he solved a puzzle and I’m certain would have shived him had Vanna White left
any sharp hair implements anywhere around the set. (It probably didn’t help that when Pat Sajak was
introducing the contestants, my friend noted he had traveled the world and
donated a kidney, while she was able to cook chicken. To be fair, she also said she had a wonderful
husband and three beautiful children but I discounted that because nobody on
television ever says my husband is a hobo and yes, I do have three kids, but
none of them are too good-looking, one is downright ugly, and the one we
thought might make good lives in a crack house.)
My turn came
in late August, and I was initially uncertain about what to do. I didn’t know that I had a lot to offer. We travel a lot, but I wasn’t certain that
the younger folks would appreciate forty-five minutes on “Cruises You Can’t
Afford and Cocktails I Have Known,” which would be mostly pictures of The Best
Girl Friend Ever (The BGFE, aka The Dental Empress) and I sitting in the Cunard
Line Commodore Club with drinkies in our hands.
The next
choice was to do something medical, but the years have taught me that while
people are fascinated by their own medical problems, they have little interest
in medicine as a whole. I flirted with
the idea of showing foreign bodies on x-rays, because everybody likes that, but
I soon discovered that for every film that showed something like a swallowed
coin or a kidney stone, the internet was happy to provide at least thirty more
of objects inserted into orificies never intended to be used in that
fashion. I won’t give you details, but
let’s just say that some of these radiographs could have been titled Candyland
with Mr. Mint, The Carol of the Bells, lt’s a Pink Plastic World, and To Infinity
and Beyond. While such a presentation
would likely be received by our crew with great interest, it also would have
violated almost every National Science Foundation Policy I can think of, so the
idea was quickly shelved.
(There may
or may not be a Not Safe for Work Version of this presentation available for
view. I am not at liberty to say. Also, is the plural of orifices orifi? Asking for a friend.)
As far as
adventures go, I did have some experiences in Rwanda years ago and I got to do
some work with NASA was well, but those days were recorded on paper photo
prints and slides in carousels back home.
I did have pictures on my phone of my car getting stuck in a snowdrift
in North Dakota and staying the night in a hotel whose décor was Dead Things on
the Wall, which itself is not an issue but becomes one when you wake up disoriented
in the middle of the night and there’s a glass-eyed, bare-fanged bobcat looking
back at you. But I didn’t think that was
enough to carry the room.
Since we had
just done Christmas in July, I finally decided that an easy way out might be to
discuss Chanukah in August. The talk
itself was pretty standard stuff. Here’s
why we celebrate Chanukah, here’s a menorah, and no, it’s not “Jewish
Christmas;” here’s a video of Kyle and Cartman from South Park singing The
Dreidel Song; I relate the story of my sister who, when asked how “real Jews”
make potato pancakes (latkes), tells then “We open the box.”
What made
the talk interesting is when I started down the internet rabbit hole trying to find
pictures of Judah Maccabee, the Hero of the Chanukah Story.
(Judah
Maccabee is loosely translated as “Judah the Hammer,” which is why a certain
obscure action film is called “The Hebrew Hammer” rather than “The Hebrew
Hacksaw” or “The Hebrew Hand Grenade.”
The movie is notable for the hero, Mordechai Jefferson Carver, shouting “SHALOM,
M…..F…..S!” while busting heads as he struggles with guilt because all his
mother wants is for him to bring home a nice girl for Sabbath dinner.)
Of course,
because the events of the Chanukah story happened between 167-160 BCE, there
are no photos nor contemporary drawings of our hero, though there is more
modern artwork depicting the events of the time. One of my favorites is from a card inside a
Victorian-era French chocolate bar (“chocolat”) depicting the death of Judah in
battle. He is given the title “Chef
Hebreux” which I know means Chief of the Hebrews, but to my simple American
mind suggests that in addition to being a charismatic leader and a master
tactician Judah must have been able to whip up a hell of a falafal.
After
finding numerous pictures in children’s books and flirting with the Brandeis Hebrew Academy's mascot Judah the Macca-bee (a blue and white hornet carrying a shield
emblazoned with the Star of David, and likely to be decimated by any other high school mascot with a flyswatter), I ran across some comic book images more
along the lines of the muscular, swarthy hero we might expect. I found that a version of Judah had been a
fixture on Earth 616 within the Marvel Universe. And that started my plunge into the internet
abyss of Jewish Super-Heroes, because once you’ve found one, why not found them
all?
It turns out
there’s quite a few. Probably the
biggest names would be Magneto, the sometimes rival and sometimes friend of the
X-Men, whose story as a Holocaust survivor drives his anger towards those who would
eliminate mutants from the world. Benjamin
Grimm, The Thing of the Fantastic Four, has been both bar mitzvahed and read
Kaddish in the pages of the pulps. X-Man
Kitty Pryde, aka Shadowcat, is militant about both her mutancy and her
Jewishness, and Sabra, an Israeli heroine, is scheduled to appear in the latest
Captain America film. Gim Allon,
Colossal Boy of the 30th century Legion of Super-Heroes, is Jewish,
as is Kate Kane, the modern version of Batwoman. Hal Jordan, the original Silver Age Green
Lantern, has one Jewish and one Catholic parent. This is good news for my son, because if Abin
Sur crash-lands on earth and is looking to hand off his Power Ring, the kid
still has a chance.
But wait,
says the infomercial…there’s more! In
the late 1990’s Alan Olrich decided that Jewish kids needed their own
books. The result was the Jewish
Super-Hero Corps. The membership
includes your basic super-hero tropes with a version of Magen David (a version
of Captain America whose shied bears the Star of David) and Kippah Kid, a
younger Batman who uses trick yarmulkes (the “beanies” worn by Orthodox Jews)
to fight crime. But then it just gets
weird.
Former
astronaut Menorah Man was on the planet Mercury and ate some radioactive
olives, which gave him the ability to grow six more arms and shoot fire from
all eight. Sabbath Queen has a wand
which can stop all electronics from working for 24 hours, except on the
Sabbath. (Saturday would be a Good Day
for Evil.) Dreidel Maidel was caught in
a cyclotron and can spin. The Mysterious
Minyan Man, the Decimal Daredevil, can split into ten men. My personal favorite is Matzah Woman, the eye
candy of the group. She gained
invulnerability and microwave vision (so let her make the popcorn) by eating a
piece of radioactive matzah. However,
she loses these powers if submerged in water for more than 18 minutes, which is
the time it takes dough to rise. So good
luck getting her tipsy on Mogen David Concord Grape and naked in the hot tub.
Just as
Marvel and DC market their heroes, the Jewish Super-Hero Corps has been
featured on a box of Old City Café Macaroni and Cheese. Apparently this was a controversial move, as
the rabbi supervising the preparation of the kosher product, one (name),
resigned his position saying super-heroes were “too goyim (non-Jewish).” You can also purchase a Magen David or
Menorah Man costume for your child on Halloween, because there’s no better way
to celebrate a pagan holiday than with a Member of the Tribe.
(And it gets
stranger. In issue #2 of their
self-titled comic, a 1950s version of the Corps needs to hide a Solar Succah (a
booth decorated with fruits and vegetables in celebration of a harvest
holiday.) The lineup included Captain Shofar,
The Black Menorah, Valor Woman, Afiko-Man, and Shimshone, with Gragger Girl as
the resident babe. The good Captain’s
orange and yellow uniform matched that of Gragger Girl so, as Frida from ABBA
would sing decades later, “I know there’s something going on.”)
But I wasn’t
even close to the bottom of lepine warren.
There was Shaloman, “The Kosher Crusader,” who is actually a rock shaped
like the Hebrew letter starting the word “Shalom”. He…it…remains inanimate until someone cries “Oy,
vey!” This means he spends a lot of time
in the kitchens of Jewish mothers who find out their son’s been dating a shiksa
(non-Jewish girl). My Dad tells me of a
fraternity song they used to sing with a New York accent:
“Oy, oy,
oy!
Zeta Beta
Toi!
Look what
you’ve done to my little Yiddish boy!
I sent him
to school to learn to read and write.
Oy! Now he’s dating shiksas on Yom Kippur night!”
Finally,
we come to Captain Israel, As best I can
tell, Captain Israel is not so much an entity unto himself, but more of a
heroic response to the menace of Foreskin Man.
Yep, you
heard right. Foreskin Man.
This is a real
thing. In 2010 there was a move in San
Francisco (of course it was San Francisco) to ban circumcision for
non-medical reasons. To promote the
cause, one Matthew Hess created Foreskin Man, who has a day job as the curator
of the Museum of Genital Integrity.
Foreskin Man saves babies from being circumcised, battling adversaries
such as Monster Mohel. To say the comic
is antisemitic is to put it in the mildest terms. It’s simply vile.
(The comic
also protests the practice of female genital mutilation, which is the absolutely
right thing to do. However, the addition
of Vulva Girl…yes, that’s the name… as an ally of the alleged hero simply mocks
this worthwhile cause.)
What’s the best
way to fight evil in the comics? It’s to
counterprogram with a hero of our own. Enter
Captain Israel, a creation of Arlen Schumer whose single eight-page book is
devoted to defeating the menace of Foreskin Man. The climactic spread shows a strong and proud
Captain Israel standing erect, hoisting up the small and wilted villain limply
by the collar, proclaiming “You’ve had a couple of issues of your own comic to
say your piece on circumcision…NOW IT’s MY TURN!” And he does.
Kick ass,
Captain Israel. And Happy Channukah.
(One final
thought: There is an argument in books
such as “Superman is Jewish?” that the entire super-hero genre as created by
men such as Jerry Siegel and Joe Schuster (Superman), Bob Kane (Batman), and
Stan Lee and Jack Kirby (Spider-Man) was a reflection of the Jewish experience
of being strangers in foreign land, persecuted for being different, hiding
power and strength behind an assimilated exterior. That being said, I can’t figure out how you
could circumcise an invulnerable Kal-El on earth under a yellow sun, so perhaps
Jor-El and Lara were Jewish, too. Either
way, I would like to see the Son of Krypton toss Foreskin Man into the sun.)
**********
The Hair and
Beard Experiment Just Because at 60 I Can continues. My hair is now so long that it drapes over my
eyes, and I need to wear a baseball cap to work at the computer or watch movies. (I don’t wear my cap at meals, not for any
reasons of etiquette, but despite the herculean efforts of the galley staff
sometimes it’s better not to see what I’m eating.) I haven’t had any problems with the beard
itching or food getting caught in it, but when I wake up drooling in my slumber
it’s pretty hard to get my face dry enough to get back to sleep.
My
colleagues’ assessment of me changes as the follicles multiply. First I was Homeless Grandpa; then as my hair
started to fall down my face, mostly on the right side because of a
well-trained wave, I become Polar Emo Wannabe.
(Personally, I would have preferred being compared to Veronica Lake with
her “peek-a-boo” hair.) Two moths ago
the Head Chef thought I resembled The Guy Who Stands Outside the Hospital and
says, “No, really, I’m a doctor. I’ll take
out your liver for twenty bucks and a pint of Mad Dog.” A few weeks after that I was wearing a thick
red flannel shirt and the Power Plant Guy labeled “Homeless Lesbian Guy.” Last week I was renamed Ted Kaczynski…the
Unabomber. Now all I have to do is get a
cabin if Montana and write my manifesto, which would probably be 75 pages of “I
love the Best Girl Friend Ever,” because not only did she let me spend a year
at the bottom of the world but after a decade together I’m still that stupid
enchanted with her.
But while my
image among the South Pole crew evolves, my mother’s feeling stays exactly the
same…“I wouldn’t go to a doctor who looked like you.” But for what it’s worth, Mom asks far too
many questions, sometimes the same one five or six times to see if she gets the
same answer, so I might not want her for a patient either. The Dental Empress/Best Girl Friend Ever will
tell you I do the same thing, and she’s referred me to another odontologist
accordingly.
**********
We took our
Over-Winter Team photo in mid-August. Herding
43 people together like a clowder of cats is difficult enough, let alone to get
them to smile in unison. The picture is
usually taken outdoors, which adds a whole new set of problems. First you have to rehearse inside, because
-89 F with a wind chill in the negative triples is not the time to be figuring
out where to stand. Then you march
outside in a parade of bobbing red head lights, and line up as you practiced,
unless you realize that you’ve wound up next to someone you don’t like, in which
case you shift to the other end of the line because there’s no way you’re
standing next to that person from now until eternity. This usually works out, because inevitably
someone on the other side of the line has also figured out they’re next to
someone they dislike, so places are swapped with little difficulty.)
This year, our
picture had us at the at the Geographic South Pole with the Milky Way and
Southern Lights above our heads. To get
the best shots of the heavens, however, you need a prolonged exposure. That’s not an issue with inanimate objects,
but at the Pole is means that your biologic subjects not only have to remain
still, but also have to hold their breath, for if they don’t everything is
obscured by a fog of exhalation. So once
you finally get everyone into place, and the camera starts to flash it’s
countdown, you hear this deep collective inspiration. As the seconds interminably tick by, you find
that you start to waver just a bit, and maybe try to take another breath
through clenched teeth to add to your bursting lungs. After a brief eternity someone who’s been
counting says, “Fifteen,” and you hear a collective release followed by a
breath in so expansive it drops the oxygen content of the air overlying the
continent for a moment or two.
While most
of us will wind up with a print somewhere in our homes, (or in my storage unit,
because the last thing the BGFE wants to see on the wall is continuing evidence
of my folly), the photo is really for the main hallway in the elevated Station
alongside team photos of every over-winter crew since the United States was
first at the Pole in 1956. Every
picture has something of interest, whether it’s a different setting for the
group, the increasing size and diversity of the crew, or the regrettable lack
of dogs since the late 1960’s. The best
photos are the sepia-toned documents of the 2011 and 2012 crews; the former is
pictured with the classic 2011 shot of Amundsen’s triumphant party at the Pole;
the 2012 group embraces Scott’s doomed expedition. History becomes palpable.
(Speaking of
dogs at the Pole, there’s actually a small book in our library entitled, “Bravo
for Bravo,” the first dog to winter at the Pole. Bravo was a valuable member of the original
1956 crew; in additional to the burdens of mascothood, Paul Siple in his book
90 South notes that Bravo was “pushed out into the snow on February 2 as a
substitute groundhog and reported that he had seen his shadow, a sure
indication of a cold winter.”
We’ve often
lamented the lack of dogs on the ice, but with recognize that a pooch could be
yet another cause of dissension we vie to curry favor with our collective
canine companion and battle over where the dog gets to sleep. Some among us have suggested we get a cat
instead, because nobody has to worry about the cat having favorites because
cats just don’t give a damn. I
understand that animals are no longer allowed on continent because of the threat
they pose to native species, but at the Pole there are no native species. How can a dog, or a few hamsters, or a
parakeet be more invasive than 43 humans the dump their wastes into a hole in
the ice?)
**********
As I finish this note I’m reminded of how much these writings are devoted to me and my experience rather than to the South Pole itself. Flat, white, barren, with infinite horizons in any direction, the icy ground varied only by small rises and falls of sastrugi, the Pole is awesome and awful, embracing and frightening, frigid yet accommodating. But even as I write I know that my giving voice to feelings provoked by simply being alone at the bottom of the world, as close as one can be to standing on an alien land, is all about me and has nothing to do with the essential nature of the Pole: Cold, austere, empty.
I should be
able to describe the Pole in the terms it deserves. But even though I’m cognizant of my error, I
still find myself writing primarily about my thoughts, my feelings, and my
friends. When I start to feel like I’m
not doing justice to the place, history is consoling. The writings of Antarctic legends like
Amundsen, Scott, and Siple try to describe an undecipherable land, but at heart
are the stories of the men who have come to this frozen world, their
accomplishments, their trials, their hopes and their fears, their thoughts on
life and at times their approaching death.
While the land may belong to the ages, the stories are strictly ours.
**********
It’s about 2
AM on a Monday morning. I can’t sleep so
I took myself for a walk outside, my usual lap around the Station with stops at
the Ceremonial and Geographic Pole, taking care to make a loop at least thirty
feet behind the latter to insure I rounded the world. It’s sually about a 20 minute sojourn, but
tonight I lingered outdoors taking in the views. It’s –101.2 F but the wind is down, so with
walking to keep you warm it’s not too bad outside at all.
It's quiet,
although as you round the far corner of the Station you can hear drone of the
powerplant, a noise which is only noticeable to you with the absence of other
sounds. Sounds don’t carry well here
because of the thin air and the terrain doesn’t generate echos, so just a few
steps and it’s gone. The sounds of the
Pole are few. There’s the sound of the wind and the fluttering of nearby flags,
but most of what you hear is you. It’s
the slight hiss of your breath, in and out, within your balaclava; it’s the
soft and subtle crunch under your feet from minute changes in balance as the
ice and snow shift from your weight.
Turning away from the Station you gaze onto an endless plain of white,
although now there’s a slight orange glow on the horizon heralding sunrise in
less than a month. This bothers
you. You realize you were in love with
the night, for the novelty, for the adventure, for the stars and auroras, and
even for the fear. Soon it will be just
another endless day. And so while you
long to be home you dread the end of September, hoping your memories will be
enough to last a lifetime.
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